Time: 3:52am Tunisian Local Time
Location: Walid's apartment
It's been another big day with nooks, alleys, crowded streets, tasty food,
arguments, cool breezes, and so on. We woke up in the morning to go tackle
Carthage, after a quick check of the email. For reasons not yet fathomable
to me, Yahoo Mail is effectively completely inaccessible, while Gmail is
snappy and responsive. Pingtimes to Yahoo's servers seem a reasonable 150
milliseconds, but pages come back completely blank, finished. Even after
dozens of minutes waiting, nothing comes in. This is with and without
Google Accelerator and with both IE and FireFox. I'm puzzled. Incidentally,
after checkin at badging yesterday, there were five Internet kiosks for
attendees - a quick scan showed three being used for Yahoo Mail, one for
MSN Mail, and one for web surfing. While a statistically useless sample
size, I was still surprised by the results.
After taking a bus to the city center (becoming increasingly dominated by
the constant free WSIS buses and flocks of diplomats and represenatatives
marching around with badges flapping), we munched on Lebanese versions of
the harissa-shawerma wraps that we had had the prior night. Very tasty! I
think they threw some beet in, which added a really nice flavor. I also
am a big fan of the press-grilling of wraps and sandwiches, like the
Italians. I drank a beautiful pear-strawberry drink. So good!
Jamil and I went to a sort of shopping mall where nearly all of the stores
are piracy shops. That's right; this wasn't some shady street operation or
even a set of tents in a park. This was a MALL with permanent signage and
a dozen or so permanently established shops where pretty much all that
went on was copying of CD's, DVDs, and games. DivX is apparently the
format of choice for most folks who have nice computers and want to not
care about region encoding and associated issues. We walk into a shop
where Jamil knows the people. There are about seven thick binders of
flyers, each one a different category of material: DivX, MP3 collections,
Audio CDs, Computer CDs, Region 2 DVDs, PlayStation2 CDs, and other CDs.
A bank of burners busily chunks out bits in the background.
Jamil and I then set out to the train to Carthage, but are cheerfully
yelled at in the city center by one of Walid's aunts from the finacai,
who offers to save us the trouble of a five minute walk in her car, if
only we can wait for an hour while she goes to the bank. We thank her for
her generous offer but decline. ;)
The train is full, but not packed, and offers a good view of the WSIS
dome and the surrounding area. Some kids board and enjoy holding the doors
of the train open while the train is moving, jumping off to run on the
platforms next to the train then back on. We exit at Carthage, now a
lovely suburb of Tunis for the well-connected elites, and see some ruins.
Jamil and I hotly debate capitalism, Marxism, and the benefits of
globalization as we straddle the seawall of Carthage, the birthplace of
international trade. It seems fitting. We press onwards to Sidi Bou Said,
a set of white-walled, blue-doored villas that seems a cross between
Italian villas and Greek coloring. It is almost painfully adorable, with
winding, steep side streets and archways going every which what way. I
buy an indigo cup. There are beautiful views and a multi-stepped cafe
which looks out over the ocean. Jamil and I talk, argue, and discuss the
whole way. I swear to do whatever I can to make sure that Jamil has the
books he needs for his education; ideally I could some day help him
start a library in Tunisia for English books. Apparently none exists
today. We'll call it "La Bibliotheque Anglaise Hamzoui".
We grab dinner at an expensive French restaurant as my treat to Jamil;
he's never been in such a place before and tries to refuse. But I'm a
tough guest. The service is really painfully bad, which I think is
probably a direct consequence of there being no tipping at nice
restaurants. In the US, nicer restaurants yield much better service
(generally), not just because of higher standards and more training,
but because a small difference in a percentage tipped of a large bill
means that even small gestures on the part of the waiter can be very
profitable. Without a tipping incentive, there's no incentive to look
after customers, other that just not getting fired. Besides having to
wait forever for anything (when the waitstaff were just idling,
literally pacing) they tried to overcharge us by "confusing" our
shared glass of Muscat (a first for Jamil!) and a bottle of Muscat.
Oy. DO NOT GO TO "Restaurant Les Ombrelles" in Gammarth. Ever.
We stumble back on home as I nearly fall asleep on the train. We taxi
it back to Walid's and I'm just about to pass out when I realize I
should check my email, upload my photos from the day, and write about
what happened. For some very strange physiological reason that is
beyond my current ken, being in front of the computer seems to have
very much the same affect as caffeine; I'm wide awake as soon as I
hit the keyboard and lose all desire to sleep. I don't get me sometimes.
I'm trying to keep notes to remember all the stuff I ought to write
about but some days are just too much. Hopefully I will manage to go
back over these notes and expand / edit / relive them before long.
But it's 3:50am and the dogs are barking and the rooster is crowing and
damned if I don't need to at least pretend like I need to go to sleep.
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